Building a Composter

We got a composter last Christmas from Kelsey’s parents, and we absolutely loved it. We loved it so much, in fact, that we broke it from overuse.

This is the composter that we were using, which didn't hold up. To be fair, we were harder on it than it was probably designed for. The pressure of the contents and the mixing process caused the joints on the corner to separate.
This is the composter that we were using, which didn’t hold up. To be fair, we were harder on it than it was probably designed for. The pressure of the contents and the mixing process caused the joints on the corner to separate.

We decided that we needed a new composter, for a variety of reasons:

  1. The composter we had broke, and new kitchen scraps were causing it to attract more bugs than normal and smell a bit. We like our neighbors, so we didn’t want to stink them out.
  2. Because we turn our compost, the little doors on the bottom of the composter weren’t practical for getting out ready-to-use compost, so we needed to have a system that would let us have an active and passive bin – one to continue to add material to, and one to let finish breaking down for use in spring planting.
  3. The old one wasn’t big enough, since we were putting everything in it – non-animal kitchen scraps, dryer lint, used tissues, shredded office paper, leaves, grass trimmings, twigs, weeds, and anything else compostable.

I have been reading How to Make and Use Compost: The Ultimate Guide by Nicky Scott, and he describes a variety of different types of composters that are used for different purposes. I liked the New Zealand Box composter, because it best met the needs I listed above, and could be made from nothing but untreated wood, screws, hinges, and handles, all of which are readily available at our local hardware store for not a lot of money. There weren’t any plans included, so I sat down with a pen and paper and drew some up – modifying the design in the book to better meet our needs. The book’s design, for instance, doesn’t have lids – so I added some for convenience. My dad, who helped me construct it, added a base to help keep the front sections from bowing out.

The box contains two bins – one for active and one for passive compost. The lids operate independently of one another, so you can open one without opening the other. There is a gap between the boards that go around the sides and in the middle, so air can get in. The bottom is open so worms can get in. The front is made out of removable slats, so you can access the compost out of one of the bins at a time without having to shovel downward. The overall dimensions are 3’x3’x6′, so each bin is 3’x3’x3′. My dad and I had a blast making it, and it only cost me about $150 in materials, which is substantially less than what you would expect to pay for a similar prefab composter. The only tools we needed were two drills, a circular saw, a jigsaw, a hammer, a square, two clamps, and some saw horses.

This is the stack of lumber that we used to build the new composter. All of these boards are 12' length, except the shim boards, which were 8'.
This is the stack of lumber that we used to build the new composter. All of these boards are 12′ length, except the shim boards, which were 8′.
This is all of the compost from our old composter. We put the new composter in the same area as the old one, so we needed to get the old one and the compost pile out of the way before we could move the new one in.
This is all of the compost from our old composter. We put the new composter in the same area as the old one, so we needed to get the old one and the compost pile out of the way before we could move the new one in.
In order to prevent the fronts of the box from bowing outward due to pressure, we made a full bottom frame and a partial top frame. The fronts are removable slats, so they don't do any work at holding the front together.
In order to prevent the fronts of the box from bowing outward due to pressure, we made a full bottom frame and a partial top frame. The fronts are removable slats, so they don’t do any work at holding the front together.
The box with the back frame and the bottom middle support added.
The box with the back frame and the bottom middle support added.
The side frames added, and the top part of the middle frame added.
The side frames added, and the top part of the middle frame added.
Kevin and his dad working together to drill holes and drive screws to hold the box together.
Kevin and his dad working together to drill holes and drive screws to hold the box together.
The box completely framed out and ready for the addition of walls. The inside wall is finished in this photo.
The box completely framed out and ready for the addition of walls. The inside wall is finished in this photo.
This is the design of the slats in the front. All of the slats except the top one are 2x6es shimmed at the bottom corners with 2.5" of 5/8" board. This method allows the slats to retain a gap to allow air transfer while being able to be removed.
This is the design of the slats in the front. All of the slats except the top one are 2x6es shimmed at the bottom corners with 2.5" of 5/8" board. This method allows the slats to retain a gap to allow air transfer while being able to be removed.
Two of the sides done. We needed to get the back and right sides done before we could move it into the corner of the fence, and we needed to move it before it was complete because it was getting very heavy.
Two of the sides done. We needed to get the back and right sides done before we could move it into the corner of the fence, and we needed to move it before it was complete because it was getting very heavy.
The hinges mounted to the back of the composter ready for lids to be attached.
The hinges mounted to the back of the composter ready for lids to be attached.
The box with all sides, lids, and slats finished and attached.
The box with all sides, lids, and slats finished and attached.
The left box is full of the compost that we pulled from the old composter. The right box is ready to be filled. The lids open independently of one another, so you can access only the bin you need to. The idea is that one bin is for active compost (the one we will continue adding things to) and the other is for finishing compost, which we will prepare for use in the spring. We will stop adding material to the left box at the end of August, but will continue turning it to ensure adequate breakdown of material in time for spring planting.
The left box is full of the compost that we pulled from the old composter. The right box is ready to be filled. The lids open independently of one another, so you can access only the bin you need to. The idea is that one bin is for active compost (the one we will continue adding things to) and the other is for finishing compost, which we will prepare for use in the spring. We will stop adding material to the left box at the end of August, but will continue turning it to ensure adequate breakdown of material in time for spring planting.

3 responses to “Building a Composter

  1. I have to say, you two are an inspiration. Composting, cloth diapers, canning and freezing food. Keep up the good work!!!

  2. Excellent!
    Exactly what I am planning and even better.
    One potential issue… that horizontal board you put on top to avoid outward bowing… is there any way to avoid it, or make it removable? I believe it will be much easier to mix the compost without that board being there.

    Regards!
    Daniel

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